Questioning the public - What design features make a garment special?

Question: What design features make a garment feel special and precious to you?

-Questionar done via facebook ( a great way to ask a large assortment of people and get quick responses), although many referred the type of clothing they liked, not the details that made them special, this was still very useful seeing what young customers liked and wanted.

20 yr Male:

“Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I dunno

the style

sometimes the memory

or sometimes cuz it looks cool

Yeah the fabric? like this cardigan I am currently wearing has these weird laced up pockets its weird

its looks raggity as but I love it haha”

19 yr Female – Travelling

“Texture

Lustrous

Hmm

Luminous silks”

18yr Female - Travelling

“I like little details than others might not spot, but you know are there. like nice buttons on a cardigan and things like that”

22yr Male – Self-employed

“flow. I’m a sucker for crazy weaves and earthy colours... I like clothes that don’t suggest they are from a synthetic world haha”

19yr  Female - University Student (dance)

‘something that compliments your body and shows off your assets.

e.g - if you were an hour glass figure, something that would compliment your waist and hips

beads, glitter. something that makes you feel like a princess and that you are pretty’

19yr Female - Sales Assistant

“ definitely the pattern and material! I love pockets, def a must in a skirt or dress. Fabrics can’t be cheap! Otherwise it deforms lol and def has to be a breathable lining too, especially in summer hope that helped’

21yr - University Student (Fashion)

‘if it is in my favourite colour..

lets see... if it has culture in it..

u know what Ian?

Or if it has diamonds on them...

I mean if it has something precious on it...

Doesn’t have to be stones.. Even gold or silver

Anything that has valuable things on it..

And.... the BRAND!”

18yr Male - Model and Photographer

“Different trippy colours and details. The colours, and cut etc, and if it’s really old I absolutely love it, or if it was especially made”

21yr Female – University Student (Physiotherapy)

“my most favourite dress is this silk dress i have its beautiful, a real emerald green

its precious because I’ve had it since I was 12 and back then it was way too big for me but then I grew into it and I’ve chopped and changed it since then”

21yr Female – University Student (?) and Sales Assistant

“Obviously the garments that are most special to me are the ones that are more different that not a lot of people would wear, whether it be the colour or the style

But as far as features go

I couldn't pick out a particular one. I really like fabric detailing where texture has been added by layering and pleating. Embellishments are great too - but i like them to be subtle

I like to be able to see them from my perspective”

28yr(?) Female – Costumer

“the material feel and print, detailing like trim or buttons.

hmm im just thinking of the dress I have on now Its more the placement of the buttons I like them on the cuffs or this one buttons down to the waistline. I also like dresses with a waistline so they are shaped. I think my fave designers are kate sylvester for her structure and cybele for her beautiful fabrics.”

21yr(?) Female – University Student (Fine Arts) and Sales Assistant

“I think it has to be something that is an extension of something classic. A modern take on a staple-Something that I can wear a lot and has the credentials to be flexible. Worn with many things and isn't to trend based.

Something that fits well and references a certain time period.

sometimes clothing can be precious if it’s just expensive”

20yr Female – University Student (Fashion and Business)

“I guess like quality fabrics... if it is made from polyester I am just like meh but if it is silk or cashmere it is more special”

19yr Female – University Student (Communications and Photography)

“Definitely delicate and flowing fabric. It makes it feel worth more and somehow richer. I always feel nice and feminine and gorgeous with light flowing fabric

also something with a strong shape. Garments that are like sacks just make me feel fat and frumpy, whereas if there is a tailored waist, I feel taller, slimmer, and therefore more confident in it

Detailed and delicate beading/sequining/embroidery!

around the neckline usually

or around the hem, stretching up.

not just like random beads speckled everywhere, although that is pretty too, but a set design. “

19yr Male – Unemployed

“the feel of the quality of the material (if that makes sense), the fit

nice lining is huge for me

Makes a big difference actually

I like a good zip too

good zips are sella”.

19yr Female – University Student (Philosophy?) and waitress.

“good quality fabric, originality not something I would see on anyone else , a good fit.”

16yr Female – High School Student.

“I like pockets, like in a dress.

I like silky kinda material

feels cool “

19yr Female – University Student (Aromatherapy Massage), Yoga teacher and Masseuse.

“fitting really well - our favourite word "flattering"

usually silks (which I feel guilty about cause I know they have to kill the worms) and really good quality cottons. I like this trelise cooper top I have cause its really pretty silk, and I love that it has this really overstated rouged flowery thing becuase it can be worn with simple jeans and it makes an outfit instantly more interesting than boring jeans and a top and it can be worn either for work or going out.

I guess the other one is my stolen girlfriends dress because the fabric has a nice feel - I think its half cotton half -synthetic. and its fits like a glove and instantly makes me feel sexy - with an emphasis on an hourglass figure - which I find a lot of clothing isn't styled for.

I like the emphasis on the hourglass - rather than trying to hide big boobs or big hips or something, working to an advantage rather than covering flaws

Her helpful comments on sleepwear/lounge wear:

“I know - and the rest of it like fluffy bathrobes and pretty ugle bustier things

well they're ugly in my size.

need something that feels good but looks good too

and something warm as well as good looking

something you can wear in front of your man - and your flatmates

I saw like a small pair of short/undies/pyjama things in a music video once

and I've been looking for something like that ever since

but they only sell the undies or looser shorts.

Summery!!
Fabric

•  Silks
• Cashmere
• Good quality cottons
• Floaty
• Lustrous
• Unusual Textures
• Delicate fabrics 
• Breathable
• Patterns
• Colours 

 'Look of the garment"

• Weird
• Flowy
• Complimentary to the body shape
• Cultural
• Organic looking
• Shaped waistline
• Extension of the classic- modern take
• Referenced a time period
• Dart manips/added fullness (Layers, Pleats, ruffles) 
• 'Princess'

Details/Embellishments

• Pockets (especially in dresses and skirts)
• Buttons (down the front of dress and on cuffs)
• Beads
• Precious items (gold, silver thread. precious stones)
• Sequining
• Embroidery
• Zips

 Key point on Sleep/Lounge wear

• Feel and look good
• Warm
• "something you can wear in front of your man - and your flatmates"
• Knicker shorts

 

Lingerie Trends

John Galliano's Underwear line for Fall/Winter 2011/2012. The lookbook is based on the ballet theme which has become incredibly popular after Black Swan film was released. The garments feature beautiful lace, sheer fabrics, flower prints and frills. There are simple but comfy combinations that still have alot of sex appeal. The styling includes choker necklaces, bangles, headpieces, point ballet shoes and leg warmers.

Totally sheer slips.

Flower print set and frills.

1920's influence in silhouette.

Little shorts in Thistle - Lonely hearts

I picked these little shorts up at designer garage sale at Fashion week, wanted them since they arrive just haven't had the moola, but now they are mine! I think these are relevant to my concept as they are present an idea of cosy underwear/lounging about shorts, they almost remind my of a snow bunny type girl with ugg boots (ew) but pushing that to the side they present a fashionable yet casual way to be comfortable and warm in you knickers/shorties. They also seem like they could be warn out which gives the garment versatility and the 'just ran out to get some milk in my nightie" (think Carrie throwing on pearls with her P.J's) kinda vibe.

Shorts info:

• Color - Thistle
• 2.5" Inseam
• 13.5" Rise
• 80% wool 20% poly
• Shorts measure approx 11.5" in length
• Elasticized waistband for slip on styling
• Dry clean only
• Made in New Zealand

Lonely Hearts aesthetics sound very similar to what I'm trying to achieve:
"Started in 2003, Lonely Hearts has created a look that is chic and feminine while focusing on wearability and functionality. Key to every collection are textural contrasts, such as hard vs soft fabrics and chiffon and leather paired together, making it clever and fun to wear. "

Fall/Winter 2012 - Key/Useful Trends

These are trends that I find particularly interesting and could see working into my collection; some I have previously explored and some I think would help me communicate my concept more clearly and help turn it into a marketable collection. 

Amalgamated: colour, Winter 12/13.

 This is extremely close to my previous colour pallet. These is a soft and hazy merge between light and dark, from gentle nudes to deep forest and foggy blues. This colour pallet is quiet and dreamy which suits my concept very well, it also reminds me of underwater seaweeds and aqua waters.

Flapper, Winter 11/12

 There is come back of 1920's flapper dresses not only in the silhouette but also the highly beaded ilks and transparent fabrics. This look is very glamorous and has feelings of chic romance. For winter garments this would not be very practical but ideas of beaded establishments could be included in subtle ways perhaps in trims or detailed areas. As for the silhouette, with my concept of layering and loose garments it could Incorporated quite easily.

Hand-knit woollens, Winter 12/13.

Wool is perfect for creating cosy garments and it can create many interesting textures. I am very keen on incorporating wool into my next collection as i did in my previous one, I think I will be using a woolen knit to replace my previous constructed wool fabric as it is very time consuming and would not suit the price range of a middle market. Wool is perfect for the winter season as it provides great warmth and is such a great natural resource for New Zealand. The image of the socks gives me ideas about undergarments for Autumn and Winter and also refers to fabric morphing. 

Lean restraint, Winter 12/13.

Silhouettes head south with easy, flowing garments providing comfort and easy movement. Yet again revering back to 1920s and Orientalism -caftans and kimonos. 

Fabric Morphing and Fabric Collage, Winter 11/12.

 The Fabric morphing happening is very similar to what I was trying to achieve in my last assignment, I want to keep exploring this as it adds textural interest in the garment and relates to my concept. Fabric collage might be an interesting way to explore fabric morphing or the merging of memories within my concept (note- the collage is very geometric)

Retro romance, Winter 11/12.

Looks are highly influenced by the 1920's, 30's and 40's and the silver screen glamour, there is an air of sophistication combined with classic masculinity. key elements such as crepe fabrics, dropped waistlines, classic masculinity, fur and beads. I think looking back to the past for silhouettes and styles could help evoke the memory and age part of my concept, I feel especially drawn to the 1920's-30's and the Orientalism within garments at the time.

Interesting trends F/W 2012

Asymmetry S/S 2012-13

 Asymmetric designs seem to be occurring in soft fabrics with lose silhouettes and dropped waist lines, creating a feeling of 1920's. Their is a feeling of relaxed breathable clothing for luxury lounging. The asymmetric designs give opportunity for layering and create a modern edgy look, they make the garments interesting to the eye and prompt ideas of architecture but also ancient Greek dress.

Unusual Combinations F/W 2012

There is a big trend for unusual fabric combinations. We can see just from these few Wool with chiffon, a contrast of see through and dense, patchworks of fabrics, Fur,wool and silk all in the same outfit, Hard with soft. These fabric combinations are introduced mainly through garment layering and not only create depth to the outfits but also draw importance to textile contrast and sensitivity which intrigues the viewer.

Velvet F/W 2012

Velvet fabrics are back in creating an old school luxury appeal. Most in rich greens, blues, purples, reds and of course black, the soft movement,sensual texture and light reflective qualities of velvet are showcased through draped garments. Velvet offers a warm elegance to the autumn and winter months. The embroidered velvet reminds me of 1920s Orientalism. 

Intimates trends

W/F 2011-12 Initimate Trend.

"Maximalism reminiscent of the old curiosity shop as well as today's concept shops such as Merci in Paris and Anthropology in New York and London. The atmosphere conjures up images of the Silk Route, the riches of all the cultures of the world. Indian embroideries mix with African jacquards, taffetas are decorated with semiprecious stones and stretch satin are everywhere... And, not to forget, the best of current masculine chic and graphics, echoes of the eccentric style of the American Iris Apfel"

-This could link to the memory aspect of my garments, also giving me an idea about silhouettes, perhaps loose like Kimono? Could a silhouette trigger memory or history?

S/S 2012 Intimates Trend.

miro

"Trend report for S/S 2012 is beautiful. There are a lot of floral prints, polka dots, and micro fibers used in intimates. There is also a lot of lace used that creates a beautiful feminine look. These looks are all so beautiful and I can't wait to see them emerge."

-A. Nilles