Fabric Shopping

 Went on a big mission to spotlight and the fabric warehouse. I want to focus on natural fabrics and picked up some natural cotton threads, wools and soft fabrics. I still cant afford silk! perhaps I will just find a fabric that looks and acts like silk to use in my samples. 

There were also some interesting blends in the yarn department. One that was super cheap was a Acrilic and milk blend which I found very unusual (and CHEAP!!) but alas I brought a Wool and Soya blend which I think is more relevent to my all natural theme and the wool is great for winter! I also picked up some fabulous Mohair yarn, some 50%Acrylic 50% Wool yarn and some Organic cotton yarn! I want to experiment with knitting and creating a transition of colour and texture through knit. I think I will dye some of the Organic cotton a light blue to help witht eh colour story.

Natural Cotton thread $2.99

I also brought muslin fabrics and cottons, I got some superfine muslin that im hoping to experiment with light singlets, knicker and bras. I want fabric that feels good to the skin and lets the skin breath, I also brought some mutton cloth which comes in the form of a circluar knit which I think is great! It gave me ideas about singlets and skirts and also means that I dont need side seams ( = less skin irratation), I also though about knitting into it and distressing it.

Light muslin $2.80p/m

Cotton bindings$1.50p/m

Mutton cloth $4.00p/m

Thick muslin $6.00p/m

Little domes (for openings)

Te Papa trip - delicate details

Today we had the opportunity to be taken 'behind the scenes' at Te Papa national museum to where they store all the fabulous fashion and textiles! While there I looked at the little embellishments and design of garments. I found that in older clothing because of the lack of technology there was alot of hand stitching which resulted in alot of care and detail in the garments; hand embroidery, decorative stitches in linings and many other beautiful things. I also noted some styles of undergarments we were shown as I think they offer great inspiration for period inspired pieces.

• Beading
• Pinked edges
• Lace
• Fringing
• Stitch designs
• Ribbon

Questioning the public - What design features make a garment special?

Question: What design features make a garment feel special and precious to you?

-Questionar done via facebook ( a great way to ask a large assortment of people and get quick responses), although many referred the type of clothing they liked, not the details that made them special, this was still very useful seeing what young customers liked and wanted.

20 yr Male:

“Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I dunno

the style

sometimes the memory

or sometimes cuz it looks cool

Yeah the fabric? like this cardigan I am currently wearing has these weird laced up pockets its weird

its looks raggity as but I love it haha”

19 yr Female – Travelling

“Texture

Lustrous

Hmm

Luminous silks”

18yr Female - Travelling

“I like little details than others might not spot, but you know are there. like nice buttons on a cardigan and things like that”

22yr Male – Self-employed

“flow. I’m a sucker for crazy weaves and earthy colours... I like clothes that don’t suggest they are from a synthetic world haha”

19yr  Female - University Student (dance)

‘something that compliments your body and shows off your assets.

e.g - if you were an hour glass figure, something that would compliment your waist and hips

beads, glitter. something that makes you feel like a princess and that you are pretty’

19yr Female - Sales Assistant

“ definitely the pattern and material! I love pockets, def a must in a skirt or dress. Fabrics can’t be cheap! Otherwise it deforms lol and def has to be a breathable lining too, especially in summer hope that helped’

21yr - University Student (Fashion)

‘if it is in my favourite colour..

lets see... if it has culture in it..

u know what Ian?

Or if it has diamonds on them...

I mean if it has something precious on it...

Doesn’t have to be stones.. Even gold or silver

Anything that has valuable things on it..

And.... the BRAND!”

18yr Male - Model and Photographer

“Different trippy colours and details. The colours, and cut etc, and if it’s really old I absolutely love it, or if it was especially made”

21yr Female – University Student (Physiotherapy)

“my most favourite dress is this silk dress i have its beautiful, a real emerald green

its precious because I’ve had it since I was 12 and back then it was way too big for me but then I grew into it and I’ve chopped and changed it since then”

21yr Female – University Student (?) and Sales Assistant

“Obviously the garments that are most special to me are the ones that are more different that not a lot of people would wear, whether it be the colour or the style

But as far as features go

I couldn't pick out a particular one. I really like fabric detailing where texture has been added by layering and pleating. Embellishments are great too - but i like them to be subtle

I like to be able to see them from my perspective”

28yr(?) Female – Costumer

“the material feel and print, detailing like trim or buttons.

hmm im just thinking of the dress I have on now Its more the placement of the buttons I like them on the cuffs or this one buttons down to the waistline. I also like dresses with a waistline so they are shaped. I think my fave designers are kate sylvester for her structure and cybele for her beautiful fabrics.”

21yr(?) Female – University Student (Fine Arts) and Sales Assistant

“I think it has to be something that is an extension of something classic. A modern take on a staple-Something that I can wear a lot and has the credentials to be flexible. Worn with many things and isn't to trend based.

Something that fits well and references a certain time period.

sometimes clothing can be precious if it’s just expensive”

20yr Female – University Student (Fashion and Business)

“I guess like quality fabrics... if it is made from polyester I am just like meh but if it is silk or cashmere it is more special”

19yr Female – University Student (Communications and Photography)

“Definitely delicate and flowing fabric. It makes it feel worth more and somehow richer. I always feel nice and feminine and gorgeous with light flowing fabric

also something with a strong shape. Garments that are like sacks just make me feel fat and frumpy, whereas if there is a tailored waist, I feel taller, slimmer, and therefore more confident in it

Detailed and delicate beading/sequining/embroidery!

around the neckline usually

or around the hem, stretching up.

not just like random beads speckled everywhere, although that is pretty too, but a set design. “

19yr Male – Unemployed

“the feel of the quality of the material (if that makes sense), the fit

nice lining is huge for me

Makes a big difference actually

I like a good zip too

good zips are sella”.

19yr Female – University Student (Philosophy?) and waitress.

“good quality fabric, originality not something I would see on anyone else , a good fit.”

16yr Female – High School Student.

“I like pockets, like in a dress.

I like silky kinda material

feels cool “

19yr Female – University Student (Aromatherapy Massage), Yoga teacher and Masseuse.

“fitting really well - our favourite word "flattering"

usually silks (which I feel guilty about cause I know they have to kill the worms) and really good quality cottons. I like this trelise cooper top I have cause its really pretty silk, and I love that it has this really overstated rouged flowery thing becuase it can be worn with simple jeans and it makes an outfit instantly more interesting than boring jeans and a top and it can be worn either for work or going out.

I guess the other one is my stolen girlfriends dress because the fabric has a nice feel - I think its half cotton half -synthetic. and its fits like a glove and instantly makes me feel sexy - with an emphasis on an hourglass figure - which I find a lot of clothing isn't styled for.

I like the emphasis on the hourglass - rather than trying to hide big boobs or big hips or something, working to an advantage rather than covering flaws

Her helpful comments on sleepwear/lounge wear:

“I know - and the rest of it like fluffy bathrobes and pretty ugle bustier things

well they're ugly in my size.

need something that feels good but looks good too

and something warm as well as good looking

something you can wear in front of your man - and your flatmates

I saw like a small pair of short/undies/pyjama things in a music video once

and I've been looking for something like that ever since

but they only sell the undies or looser shorts.

Summery!!
Fabric

•  Silks
• Cashmere
• Good quality cottons
• Floaty
• Lustrous
• Unusual Textures
• Delicate fabrics 
• Breathable
• Patterns
• Colours 

 'Look of the garment"

• Weird
• Flowy
• Complimentary to the body shape
• Cultural
• Organic looking
• Shaped waistline
• Extension of the classic- modern take
• Referenced a time period
• Dart manips/added fullness (Layers, Pleats, ruffles) 
• 'Princess'

Details/Embellishments

• Pockets (especially in dresses and skirts)
• Buttons (down the front of dress and on cuffs)
• Beads
• Precious items (gold, silver thread. precious stones)
• Sequining
• Embroidery
• Zips

 Key point on Sleep/Lounge wear

• Feel and look good
• Warm
• "something you can wear in front of your man - and your flatmates"
• Knicker shorts

 

First design sketches

Here are 8 different sketches for garments, mostly inspired by 1920's silhouettes. I know I want to get into sleepwear and lounge wear as I feel there is a big gap in the market for these. There is alot of layering going on here however I want to try and create some garments that give the look of layers with fragile straps but that are actually one garment. I think I need to buy some silk, dyes (as I was previously using acrylic paint) and think wool yarn.