Questioning the public - What design features make a garment special?

Question: What design features make a garment feel special and precious to you?

-Questionar done via facebook ( a great way to ask a large assortment of people and get quick responses), although many referred the type of clothing they liked, not the details that made them special, this was still very useful seeing what young customers liked and wanted.

20 yr Male:

“Ummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I dunno

the style

sometimes the memory

or sometimes cuz it looks cool

Yeah the fabric? like this cardigan I am currently wearing has these weird laced up pockets its weird

its looks raggity as but I love it haha”

19 yr Female – Travelling

“Texture

Lustrous

Hmm

Luminous silks”

18yr Female - Travelling

“I like little details than others might not spot, but you know are there. like nice buttons on a cardigan and things like that”

22yr Male – Self-employed

“flow. I’m a sucker for crazy weaves and earthy colours... I like clothes that don’t suggest they are from a synthetic world haha”

19yr  Female - University Student (dance)

‘something that compliments your body and shows off your assets.

e.g - if you were an hour glass figure, something that would compliment your waist and hips

beads, glitter. something that makes you feel like a princess and that you are pretty’

19yr Female - Sales Assistant

“ definitely the pattern and material! I love pockets, def a must in a skirt or dress. Fabrics can’t be cheap! Otherwise it deforms lol and def has to be a breathable lining too, especially in summer hope that helped’

21yr - University Student (Fashion)

‘if it is in my favourite colour..

lets see... if it has culture in it..

u know what Ian?

Or if it has diamonds on them...

I mean if it has something precious on it...

Doesn’t have to be stones.. Even gold or silver

Anything that has valuable things on it..

And.... the BRAND!”

18yr Male - Model and Photographer

“Different trippy colours and details. The colours, and cut etc, and if it’s really old I absolutely love it, or if it was especially made”

21yr Female – University Student (Physiotherapy)

“my most favourite dress is this silk dress i have its beautiful, a real emerald green

its precious because I’ve had it since I was 12 and back then it was way too big for me but then I grew into it and I’ve chopped and changed it since then”

21yr Female – University Student (?) and Sales Assistant

“Obviously the garments that are most special to me are the ones that are more different that not a lot of people would wear, whether it be the colour or the style

But as far as features go

I couldn't pick out a particular one. I really like fabric detailing where texture has been added by layering and pleating. Embellishments are great too - but i like them to be subtle

I like to be able to see them from my perspective”

28yr(?) Female – Costumer

“the material feel and print, detailing like trim or buttons.

hmm im just thinking of the dress I have on now Its more the placement of the buttons I like them on the cuffs or this one buttons down to the waistline. I also like dresses with a waistline so they are shaped. I think my fave designers are kate sylvester for her structure and cybele for her beautiful fabrics.”

21yr(?) Female – University Student (Fine Arts) and Sales Assistant

“I think it has to be something that is an extension of something classic. A modern take on a staple-Something that I can wear a lot and has the credentials to be flexible. Worn with many things and isn't to trend based.

Something that fits well and references a certain time period.

sometimes clothing can be precious if it’s just expensive”

20yr Female – University Student (Fashion and Business)

“I guess like quality fabrics... if it is made from polyester I am just like meh but if it is silk or cashmere it is more special”

19yr Female – University Student (Communications and Photography)

“Definitely delicate and flowing fabric. It makes it feel worth more and somehow richer. I always feel nice and feminine and gorgeous with light flowing fabric

also something with a strong shape. Garments that are like sacks just make me feel fat and frumpy, whereas if there is a tailored waist, I feel taller, slimmer, and therefore more confident in it

Detailed and delicate beading/sequining/embroidery!

around the neckline usually

or around the hem, stretching up.

not just like random beads speckled everywhere, although that is pretty too, but a set design. “

19yr Male – Unemployed

“the feel of the quality of the material (if that makes sense), the fit

nice lining is huge for me

Makes a big difference actually

I like a good zip too

good zips are sella”.

19yr Female – University Student (Philosophy?) and waitress.

“good quality fabric, originality not something I would see on anyone else , a good fit.”

16yr Female – High School Student.

“I like pockets, like in a dress.

I like silky kinda material

feels cool “

19yr Female – University Student (Aromatherapy Massage), Yoga teacher and Masseuse.

“fitting really well - our favourite word "flattering"

usually silks (which I feel guilty about cause I know they have to kill the worms) and really good quality cottons. I like this trelise cooper top I have cause its really pretty silk, and I love that it has this really overstated rouged flowery thing becuase it can be worn with simple jeans and it makes an outfit instantly more interesting than boring jeans and a top and it can be worn either for work or going out.

I guess the other one is my stolen girlfriends dress because the fabric has a nice feel - I think its half cotton half -synthetic. and its fits like a glove and instantly makes me feel sexy - with an emphasis on an hourglass figure - which I find a lot of clothing isn't styled for.

I like the emphasis on the hourglass - rather than trying to hide big boobs or big hips or something, working to an advantage rather than covering flaws

Her helpful comments on sleepwear/lounge wear:

“I know - and the rest of it like fluffy bathrobes and pretty ugle bustier things

well they're ugly in my size.

need something that feels good but looks good too

and something warm as well as good looking

something you can wear in front of your man - and your flatmates

I saw like a small pair of short/undies/pyjama things in a music video once

and I've been looking for something like that ever since

but they only sell the undies or looser shorts.

Summery!!
Fabric

•  Silks
• Cashmere
• Good quality cottons
• Floaty
• Lustrous
• Unusual Textures
• Delicate fabrics 
• Breathable
• Patterns
• Colours 

 'Look of the garment"

• Weird
• Flowy
• Complimentary to the body shape
• Cultural
• Organic looking
• Shaped waistline
• Extension of the classic- modern take
• Referenced a time period
• Dart manips/added fullness (Layers, Pleats, ruffles) 
• 'Princess'

Details/Embellishments

• Pockets (especially in dresses and skirts)
• Buttons (down the front of dress and on cuffs)
• Beads
• Precious items (gold, silver thread. precious stones)
• Sequining
• Embroidery
• Zips

 Key point on Sleep/Lounge wear

• Feel and look good
• Warm
• "something you can wear in front of your man - and your flatmates"
• Knicker shorts

 

Intimates trends

W/F 2011-12 Initimate Trend.

"Maximalism reminiscent of the old curiosity shop as well as today's concept shops such as Merci in Paris and Anthropology in New York and London. The atmosphere conjures up images of the Silk Route, the riches of all the cultures of the world. Indian embroideries mix with African jacquards, taffetas are decorated with semiprecious stones and stretch satin are everywhere... And, not to forget, the best of current masculine chic and graphics, echoes of the eccentric style of the American Iris Apfel"

-This could link to the memory aspect of my garments, also giving me an idea about silhouettes, perhaps loose like Kimono? Could a silhouette trigger memory or history?

S/S 2012 Intimates Trend.

miro

"Trend report for S/S 2012 is beautiful. There are a lot of floral prints, polka dots, and micro fibers used in intimates. There is also a lot of lace used that creates a beautiful feminine look. These looks are all so beautiful and I can't wait to see them emerge."

-A. Nilles

Woman's Undergarments

Elle MacPherson's lingerie is highly feminine with a little bit of 'vavavoom' and is highly influenced by old Romance, using a lot of lace and frills. I like Elle Macpherson's lingerie because it makes a woman feel sexy and feminine and a little romantic.

 Lonely Hearts line 'Lonely' adds a modern edge to lingerie, while still having feminine aspects such as lace and delicate silks, they offer a new perspective on undergarments with architecture inspire lines and cutouts (this gives some of there lingerie a sporty look). I like Lonely Hearts lingerie as it offers a new look to lingerie and appeals to the modern 'trendy' woman being artistic and fresh.

Peter Alexander focuses on sleep wear. Offering cute and fun prints and comfortable sleepwear to an adult audience (also has kids range). He features garments such as P.J sets, shorts, singlets, t-shirts, nighties, ropes and other comfortable sleepwear. I think Peter Alexander is great as he is filling a gap in the market for quality upper-market sleepwear that doesn't focus on sex appeal or seriousness. 

Lingerie Overview

The main difference between high and low end lingerie is the fabrication and practicality of the garment. A Bonds bra might appeal to a working woman for everyday wear where as a sheer chemise by McCartney would be reserved for a more intimate occasion as a ‘show piece’ – a clear difference of ‘want’ and ‘need’ (much like the Singlets viewed in the Market Overview), practical and impractical.

Market Report Overview

From this market research I have noticed a few major things that set low and high end garments apart.  Construction, Fabric & Style.

The construction of the garment is not as accurate and is often simpler in low end garments, this may be due to the speed in which these garments are sewn in order to accommodate to a huge demand, the more simple a garment the less knowledgeable the seamstress has to be and the quicker the process. The lower end garments were often finished with closed seams, 5 thread cover stitch (which eliminates the need for prior over locking) or knits might have a bound edge. As garments become higher end bound edges are very basic and other finishing such as French seams or facings might be used, these would both require more fabric therefore upping the garment price.

The difference of fabric between the high and low end of the market contributes largely to what is seen as high and low end fashion. Lower end brands use a lot of cotton and cheap synthetics where as high end use more expensive fabrics such as silk or linen. The design of the fabric is also a key factor, low end brands use basic fabrics and have poor prints (usually on cotton) where as high end designers might design their own fabrics and prints, this adds a unique selling point to their garments and also pushes up the price. The use of knits in lower end garments eliminates the need for darts or tailoring to fit their mass consumer. The changing quality of zips, buttons and clasps can also be notices.

The style of garment also says a lot about a brand and their consumer. Lower end brands may use ‘staple designs’ that will sell and sell again (such as men’s singlet or plain jeans) to appeal to a broader audience or make cheaper ‘watered down’ versions of the latest trend where as expensive brands often appeal to a selected consumer with a specific style and attitude to their clothing, this makes their audience smaller but because of the ‘rare’ appeal and quality of their clothing, they are able to push up their prices.

Although top end designers show complex pattern making skills they can also make simple garments similar to low end designs, the biggest difference being the fabric and execution put into the garment.